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Phuket
Vegetarian Festival
A
colourful event held over a nine day
period in late September/early October,
this celebrates the Chinese community's
belief that abstinence from meat and
various stimulants during the ninth
lunar month of the Chinese calendar
will help them obtain good health
and peace of mind.
Though the origins of the festival
are unclear, it is thought that perhaps
the festival was bought to Phuket
by a wandering Chinese opera group
who fell ill with malaria while performing
on the island. They decided to adhere
to a strict vegetarian diet and pray
to the Nine Emperor Gods who would
ensure purification of the mind and
body. On recovery, the people celebrated
by holding a festival that was meant
to honour the gods as well as express
the people's happiness at surviving
what was, in the nineteenth century,
a fatal illness.
The festival always
falls on the first days of the ninth
Chinese lunar month, and for nine
days participants observe the following
commitments:
Cleanliness of
the body during the festival
Clean kitchen utensils not to be used
by others who do not participate in
the festival
Wear white during the festival
Behave physically and mentally
Avoid eating meat
Avoid sex
Avoid alcohol
People in mourning should not participate
Pregnant women and menstruating women
should not attend ceremonies
One
of the most exciting aspects of the
festival is the various, (and sometimes
gruesome) ceremonies which are held
to invoke the gods. Firewalking, body
piercing and other acts of self mortification
undertaken by participants acting
as mediums of the gods, have become
more spectacular and daring as each
year goes by. Men and women puncture
their cheeks with various items including
knives, skewers and other household
items. It is believed that the Chinese
gods will protect such persons from
harm, and little blood or scarring
results from such mutilation acts.
This is definitely not recommended
for the feint hearted to witness.
The ceremonies
of the festival take place in the
vicinity of the six Chinese temples
scattered throughout Phuket. The main
temple is Jui Tui Shrine not far from
the Fresh Market in Phuket Town. The
first event is the raising of the
Lantern Pole, an act that notifies
the nine Chinese gods that the festival
is about to begin. The pole is at
least ten metres tall and once erected,
celebrants believe that the Hindu
god, Shiva, descends bringing spiritual
power to the event.
For the next few
days, the local Chinese/Thai community
brings their household gods to the
temple, along with offerings of food
and drink. It is assumed that the
household gods will benefit from an
annual injection of spiritual energy
that fills the temple. Visitors can
observe and even participate in the
lighting of joss sticks and candles
that are placed around the various
gods.
Usually street
processions take place, where visitors
can see participants walking in a
trance. Other events include hundreds
of local residents running across
a bed of burning coals, or climbing
an eight metre ladder of sharp blades
while in trance.
Apart from the
visual spectacle of this festival,
visitors can partake in specially
prepared vegetarian cuisine made available
at street stalls and markets around
the island during this time. The vegetarian
dishes are not easily distinguished
from regular dishes - soybean and
protein substitute products are used
to replace meat in standard Thai fare
and look and taste uncannily like
meat. Look for the yellow flags with
red Chinese or Thai characters to
find vegetarian food stalls - and
keep your camera handy!!
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